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TESTEX accredited for GMO Cotton Proficiency Testing

27.11.23

This year, the Global Organic Textile Standard, the Organic Cotton Accelerator, and Textile Exchange set out the global proficiency test initiative to bring clarity regarding the laboratories that perform GMO cotton testing according to ISO IWA 32:2019. TESTEX is now one of the 27 laboratories worldwide to have received this accreditation. So what are the benefits of GMO testing and why is it important?

GMO lab

The trend towards textiles made of organic cotton is growing rapidly, as consumers are increasingly worried about the environment and harmful substances in the products they wear, so they want to see independent proof on the labels of the garments they buy. However, genetic modifications are repeatedly found in textiles that are falsely designated with organic labels.

Currently, almost all of cotton in the world market is GMO cotton. Roughly 2% is GMO free cotton, but which has been grown using synthetic fertilisers and pesticides. Only 0.2% of cotton is fully organic, and this needs to be scientifically proven.

Our tests cover all aspects of the supply chain, from raw cotton through yarns and fabrics to ready-made end products. The testing method for GMO (genetically modified organisms), uses established molecular biological detection systems specially tailored for cotton products. We can now screen 6 different targets (formerly only 4) of the cotton DNA for GMO, and this covers almost all changes in the genome.

The test is a GMO screening on a DNA level, where samples are analysed using qPCR technology (real-time polymerase chain reaction). A sample is tested for a specific sequence of genetic markers which can identify a genetic modification. The DNA-analysis allows us to make a yes or no statement regarding genetic modifications in cotton. Customers receive a test report detailing the results with a yes / no statement about the presence of GMO cotton.

Testing procedure:

  • Firstly, the cotton sample is crushed and cotton fibres are extracted and treated using enzymes. The genetic material (DNA) is then isolated from the cotton fibres, enzymes and other cellular material and purified through a multi-stage process.
  • If a specific target sequence (marker gene) is found in the DNA, that indicates a genetic modification. A control sample is tested to exclude false negative results.

Generally, the DNA is protected in the nucleus of the cotton fibre. However, in some cases the cotton in a finished product has been so heavily processed that the DNA cannot be extracted.

What are the benefits for brands, manufacturers, and consumer protection organisations?

  • Quality control & product optimisation
  • Protection against fraud
  • Supply chain transparency
  • Promotional claim verification
  • Recognised by OEKO-TEX® for STANDARD 100 and ORGANIC COTTON certification

If you are interested in GMO testing please contact us via our contact form or customerservice@testex.com.

Cotton field

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